Most wine geeks would consider it common knowledge that Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc are all practically identical, aside from slight genetic mutation. But it looks like most wine grapes might be more closely related than I thought.

A recent study (conducted by Sean Myles, a geneticist at Cornell University) found that most Vitis Vinifera are in fact very similar.

“Thus merlot is intimately related to cabernet franc, which is a parent of cabernet sauvignon, whose other parent is sauvignon blanc, the daughter of traminer, which is also a progenitor of pinot noir, a parent of chardonnay.”

Due to the fact that most Grape vines are cloned, there is little room for natural genetic adaptation.  The results of the study showed that 75% of all grape varieties are as closely related as parent to child, or brother to sister.

Why is this bad?  Essentially most grape species have stopped evolving (or are evolving slower than is natural), which means they are not building new immunities to pests and other diseases.

You can check out the original article from the NY Times.

SUSTAINABLY FARMED

This refers to a range of agricultural practices that are not only ecologically sound, but also economically viable and socially responsible.  They generally recycle, conserve energy and water, use renewable resources when possible and minimize the use of chemical products.  Most countries have no regulations or certifications for “sustainably farmed” wines.  Some wineries that practice sustainable farming practices are: Araujo, Cade, Cafaro, Cain, Merryvale, Nickel & Nickel, Oberon and Pahlmeyer.

ORGANIC

Like sustainable farmers, organic farmers strive to conserve soil and water, while using renewable resources.  Unlike sustainable farming, producers must be certified by one of several agencies before they can use the word “organic” on the label.  Organic standards prohibit the use of synthetic pesticides, herbicides and fungicides, as well as chemical or sewage sludge based fertilizers.  There are two types of organic wines: those made from organic grapes, and those which the final product is certified organic.  In order for the actual wine to be called organic, the winemaker is not allowed to use any sulfur dioxide.  Minimal amounts of sulfur dioxide are practically necessary to produce a wine that will have a long shelf-life, or any aging capabilities.  This is why most wines are labeled as “made from organic grapes”.  Some organic wineries: Charles Krug, Clos Pepe, Robert Sinskey, and Frey.

BIODYNAMIC

This takes organic farming to the next level.  Biodynamic viticulture practices gained popularity in France originally, but has since gained worldwide popularity.  This holistic approach was founded in the 1920′s by Austrian scientist Rudolf Steiner.  This approach looks at the entire wine estate as a self-sustaining, self-regulating ecosystem.  Biodynamics combines organic farming’s elimination of chemicals and genetically modified organisms (GMOs) with astrological factors, homeopathy, the natural rhythms of the earth.  Some biodynamic wineries: M. Chapoutier, Benziger and Domaine Leflaive.

Seems like carelessness may have caused millions in damage; currently the Gloria fire has burned over 6,000 acres, costing over $4 million in containment costs.  In my eyes Estancia should be doing everything it can to improve its image.  I prefer not to support large wineries like Estancia (or their parent company Constellation).  Not only do I find their wines lackluster and mass produced, but they are not truly indicative of specific vineyard sites.  Wine should bring you somewhere, giving you a taste of the unique terroir and winemaker’s style.  Just my $.02.

We are all familiar with California Cabernet Sauvignon, Oregon Pinot Noir, and Washington Riesling.  But how about Pennsylvania Grüner Veltliner?  With almost 150 wineries, and over 12,000 acres under vine, Pennsylvania is searching for it’s “signature” grape varietal.  In an effort to draw more attention to their wines, they are strongly considering both Cabernet Franc, and Grüner Veltliner as their signature grape.  One thing is for certain: Pennsylvania will have to choose a grape that produces quality wines in a cool, humid climate.

Pennsylvania grows many different varietals including Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Catawba, Cayuga, Chambourcin, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Seyval Blanc, Grüner Veltliner, Vidal Blanc, and Vignoles.  Chambourcin is an interesting grape that originated from the French regions of Bordeaux and The Loire.  Very resistant to fungal diseases, Chambourcin can be grown in cooler regions.  It is capable of producing spicy, fragrant wines with good concentration.  Pennsylvania AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) include Central Delaware Valley, Cumberland Valley, Lake Erie, Lancaster Valley, and Lehigh Valley.

Pennsylvania wineries typically get very little press, but they’re out there.  The Chaddsford Winery is pretty well known for making various Chardonnay bottlings, including single vineyard offerings.  Clover Hill produces mostly whites (including the little-known Chambourcin) with the occasional Cabernet Sauvignon.

Araujo Estates began harvesting Sauvignon Muscat today.  Other vineyards will begin harvesting Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the near future.  Thicker skinned grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Syrah will be picked later as they take longer to ripen.

Most winemakers are optimistic with this year’s harvest.

We typically see Primitivo grown in Italy and Zinfandel grown elsewhere.  Sometimes, we will even see blends of Zinfandel and Primitivo here in the US, strictly because US law does not allow the names to be used interchangeably.  Over in Europe, they are allowed to be used interchangably.

The only main difference I typically see between the two is Primitvo ripens slightly earlier, lending itself to lighter, fruitier wines.

This is a huge step in the right direction, showing the President’s support for local, organic and sustainable agriculture.  This is quite a change from the days when Ronald Regan ordered the removal of solar panels installed on the White House roof by Jimmy Carter.

One of Obama’s promises was to double the resources devoted to organic agriculture.  The new budget is still crawling its way through congress, but it appears the National Organic Program will be granted $6.7 million, a significant increase from the previously allotted $3.9 million.

So how does this affect wineries that practice organic farming?  The Organic Certification Cost Share Program will help wineries defray the costs incurred through obtaining organic certification– a pricey endeavor.  Tax credits are also helping wineries that are using sustainable energy sources such as solar power.  Sasha Kadey, spokesperson for Oregon’s King Estate winery, says “This is one area that we’ve been directly impacted in a positive way,” referring to tax credits for solar power.  King Estate is amongst the largest organic wineries in the US.

But many smaller producers simply don’t have the time or energy to keep up with the new federal funding offered by Obama.  Alex Sokol Blosser, president of the Sokol Blosser winery in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, puts in his $.02 when asked about converting his winery to organic: “I looked at all the paperwork and decided I don’t have the time. The two-week window for submitting an application was impractical.”  There is federal funding available through the Organic Conversion Program for farmers and vintners who wish to convert their farms to organic.

What is “Organic Wine?”

Consumers should be aware that the laws regarding organic wines have become more stringent.  Previously, wines labeled with “Made with Organic Ingredients” only had to contain 70% organic ingredients.  Wine makers can now label their wines “Made with Organically Grown Grapes” if the wine comes from 100% organic grapes.  In addition, if wines contain juice from grapes that were not 100% organic, the label must indicate this, along with the percentage of non-organic grapes used in the blend.

And remember that sulfites are a naturally occuring by-product of the fermentation process (especially in red wines).  While often added by winemakers to act as a preservative, almost all red wines will contain small amounts of sulfites unless stated on the label.

Wine Tip:

Do you get headaches from red wines?  It is often caused by the sulfates, even if they are in very limited quantities.  If you are sensitive to sulfates, try taking a sudafed or similar anti-histamine before drinking red wine.  I’ve found that this solves the problem almost 90% of the time!  See my newer post for more information on red wine headaches.